RESTO RECO: Get a taste of Florence at this hot new Toronto restaurant

A new restaurant named after the Florentine coin, the Florin, just opened in Toronto and it’s a great place to get a taste of Italy.

Florin comes to us from the same family-run behind Mother Tongue, and represents the cuisine of Florence through classy plates served in a sophisticated space. The chef de cuisine is Brian Kang, who’s worked at high end restaurants DaNico and Don Alfonso, and the executive chef de cuisine is Francis Bermejo of Mother Tongue and Bar Buca.

The space feels rich as soon as you step inside, with lots of soft golden lighting, gentle curves and luxurious materials.

A stunning bar area at the front and a window into the quietly bustling kitchen at the back draw the eye, and there are lots of plush romantic alcoves to curl up in.

It’s practically mandatory to start off a night here with the pepperoncini martini, perfect for lovers of a filthy martini but with an Italian twist. The punchy, spicy drink combines olive oil vodka, dry vermouth, and olive and pepperoncini brine, and is garnished with cheesy olives that could easily be eaten on their own.

A zucca fritti appetizer is also a great place to start, very lightly fried and served on a bed of fluffy mascarpone mousse with touches of prosciutto and honey.

The carpaccio is a jewel of a dish, thinly sliced Wagyu paired with mustard sauce, hazelnut and balsamic pearls for a burst of acidity.

The gnudi is a simple starring dish, an elevated version of a traditional “naked” dumpling, essentially only the stuffing of a pasta. The creamy spinach and ricotta filling is nicely set off by sage, lemon and a brown butter sauce.

Florin makes all their own pasta for their pasta dishes with the exception of one. The agnolotti al baccala showcases the scratch house pasta, golden little packages stuffed with baccala and potato and lightly draped with a creamy sauce.

The only pasta that isn’t made in house is the vermicelli alla suprema di mare, but it’s acquired from a reputable traditional source and has a nice al dente bite to it. Highlighting the bounty of the sea, the pasta comes with juicy lobster, shrimp, clams and bottarga, and is topped with a pretty little heap of popping trout roe.

For dessert, you could go with classic tiramisu or panna cotta, but for something a little different, opt for the schiacciata alla Fiorentina. Cute little saffron sponge cakes are coupled with orange blossom Chantilly, orange sauce and candied orange for a lovely floral dessert that isn’t overpowering.

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, and also has a narrow but elegant patio on the side. Florin is located at 80 Richmond St. W.

1. Florin