Inside Toronto’s iconic hybrid dining space and test kitchen

A local institution has a new home and is ready to serve as a culinary beacon through a cold Toronto winter.

The Depanneur — named for Québécois corner stores of the same name — had its initial debut over a decade ago in Toronto’s Little Portugal neighbourhood.

Initially setting up shop in a former corner store on College Street in 2011, The Depanneur relocated to the Centre for Social Innovation (CSI) building downtown late last year, where it would refine its reputation as a communal space for cooking classes and deep dives into the world of gastronomy.

Now a year in its new location, founder Len Senater is taking stock of what it means to be a community-oriented space for cooks, food enthusiasts and other creatives, all while operating against the backdrop of a city that has a reputation for cannibalizing accessible dining locales and chasing trends.

“It’s a very high-stakes and expensive environment. People often tell you that if it isn’t a huge success right out of the gate, it can’t sustain itself,” Senater told yourcitywithIN.com. “As a result, the city gets caught in a loop of trend chasing, subject to a lot of derivative copycat food concepts. I mean, my god, if I have to go to another restaurant serving fish tacos on a grazing board, I’m going to lose my mind.”

[Kitchen prep at The Depanneur. Photo courtesy of  The Depanneur.]

While the culinary landscape in the city has evolved since The Depanneur’s debut, the essence of what the space does remains unchanged.

Specializing in bringing in independent cooks, caterers, and restaurateurs for cooking classes, table talks, supper clubs, and more, The Depanneur has prioritized serving as a countermeasure to the lingering snobbery that hides in Toronto’s food scene.

“The gentrification of this city has a negative impact on its capacity for creativity, and in turn, its people’s willingness to take creative risks. Hopefully, I’m providing an antidote to that,” says Senater.

Upon entering the top floor of the CSI building on Spadina just off Queen, The Depanneur greets guests with a massive studio space with warm decor, crystal chandeliers and an enormous test kitchen where Toronto’s culinary dynamos — and their students — can take part in cooking classes, where the result is a giant community feast.

“In terms of the vibes of the events, especially since moving, that hasn’t changed much. People get together, they learn together, they eat together — family style — and they even get to bring their own wine. It’s fun, it’s intimate, it’s connected, and it’s cozy,” says Senater.

[Guests enjoy their hard work after a cooking class session. Photo courtesy of  The Depanneur.]

During our visit, yourcitywithIN.com was able to observe the process of making fresh gnocchi from scratch with Laura Guanti of Bellanti Events & Catering.

While Senater notes that every cooking class under The Depanneur’s roof is unique in its own way, this seminar on sauces and aromas easily encapsulates what the location is all about and how its new home provides a suitable space that is equal parts classroom, kitchen and dining hall.

“The majority of the people we bring in are just exceptionally passionate about cooking. They have something they want to share, and they don’t even necessarily work in the industry. At the same time, we do get accomplished chefs coming in, who feel like they don’t get this kind of personal freedom elsewhere,” says Senater.

The remainder of this year’s scheduling at The Depanneur includes an introduction to animal butchery, how to make fresh fermented hot sauce, sourdough, and stuffed pasta, to name a few.

[Busy hands at The Depanneur’s gnocci night.]

As for the gnocchi night we popped into, the results showcased just a sneak peek at some of the marvels that come out of The Depanneur.

When all was said and done, tables that were once massive prep stations were neatly transformed into family dining set-ups, where students became diners, as freshly made gnocchi paired with cherry tomato/arugula agli’olio, green spinach, gorgonzola crema, and black squid ink were served to the hungry hands that made them.

This communal dining experience, according to Senater, is not only crucial to enjoying The Depanneur, but also necessary to enjoying Toronto.

“Last year, I looked at the World Happiness Report, and one of the things that stood out to me was how important the act of sharing a meal with people was. It turns out it is a better indicator of happiness on a massive scale than employment status and income combined. Toronto is a big, expensive, and atomized city. When do you get to sit down with and talk with like-minded people and share a meal with them — it’s rarer than you think,” says Senater.

This ethos has recently earned the location some serious accolades, as earlier this year, Senater, with the input of countless culinary minds, released The Depanneur Cookbook.

Which, just this week, went on to win a gold medal at the 2025 Taste Canada Cookbook Awards.

“It has 100 recipes from 100 different people who have cooked at The Depanneur, all of whom are from over 80 different countries, which really reflects the diversity of our space,” says Senater.

Senater hopes that the cookbook, and its recognition, will help shine a light on The Depanneur’s innovation in its new space, since leaving its original neighbourhood location.

[Stuffed pasta seminar at The Depanneur. Photo courtesy of  The Depanneur]

“There are a lot of people I know out there who loved the old Deppaneur and would come often, who don’t know we’ve reopened here — I’ve been trying really hard to shout it from the rooftops.”

In the meantime, Senater, whose only background in the world of culinary arts is simply the joy of cooking, will continue to provide the city with an accessible space where people can spark their own personal joy alongside stovetops, stating, “We’re going to continue connecting people with one another, because I’m not in the restaurant business, I’m in the business of human connection.”