High-end restaurant takes over huge former brewpub in Toronto

A two-level restaurant space in the east end of the city has a new name, look, feel and menu almost a year and a half after its previous tenant closed up shop. 

Late last month, just after Christmas, a higher-end Indian restaurant offering a mix of staples such as butter chicken, dal makhani, lamb saag and more elevated dishes (including a “deconstructed” samosa) celebrated the grand opening of its spacious new Danforth Avenue location.

Once home to brewpub Louis Cifer, known for its casual fare, family-friendly vibes (and movie nights), the two-level hotspot now belongs to Dhoom, a resto that offers “modern” Indian and American cuisine, brunch, cocktails and live music. 

On its Instagram account, the new resto bills itself as a fusion of modern, comfortable dining and nightlife. 

“A new genre of Indian dining. Authenticity refined, luxury redefined,” the restaurant’s website reads. 

“Born from a vision to transcend the boundaries of Indian dining and reimagine it as an elevated, modern and expressive experience. More than a restaurant, it is a cultural movement that reshapes perceptions of Indian hospitality while honouring the timeless nature of Atithi Devo Bhava.” 

Pink bazaar samosa chaat

While Toronto (and the GTA overall) has no shortage of Indian restaurants, there’s been an increase in fine dining hotspots over the years, with Adrak Yorkville–which raised eyebrows by not allowing children under 10 to dine in the restaurant–upping the ante with its $80 royal pista lamb chop and $94 Raan- E- Shahi slow cooked lamb leg. 

Bar Goa has also infused the Toronto Indian food scene with upscale offerings, including seven-course meat and vegetarian omakase tasting menus ($99 and $89, respectively) and an extensive cocktail selection (which includes a masala margarita with white tequila, coriander and green chilli).

Now, Dhoom, not quite boasting the eye-watering price points of its bougier contemporaries, still puts luxury front and centre with chic decor, heavy porcelain plates and copper-hued cutlery. 

The restaurant is visually stunning, with an elegant white-and-beige interior that’s contemporary and refined. The pre-existing brewing tanks along the wall are covered with lacy curtains, and the other end of the restaurant features a sleek bar serving a mix of signature and classic cocktails and mocktails. 

Some creative libations on offer include the Dhoom signature cocktail, made with guava, citrus, and tequila, and the curry leaf no. 7 with gin, clarified watermelon juice, citrus, curry leaf and saline. Diners can also try the flower flames with pea flower gin, Sauvignon Blanc, and soda, or the basil bliss with gin, prosecco, syrup, and Peychaud’s bitters. 

While many menu items will be familiar to those who regularly indulge in Indian cuisine (biryani, chicken tikka masala, dhal makhani, to name a few), there are a few standout dishes. While the prices for the mains are comparable to other nearby Indian restos, the $18 price tag on the samosa is, at first, quite shocking. That said, this is truly an ‘elevated’ appetizer. The pink bazaar samosa chaat comprises one large savoury puff pastry, sliced into four, and coated with whipped yogurt, pomegranate seeds, tamarind glaze, pink drizzle, and chaat masala. 

Filling (and with quite a bit of kick), it’s a showstopper–and enough to satisfy two people. 

Himalayan dumplings

Dhoom also offers both chicken- and vegetable-stuffed Himalayan dumplings, which come piping hot and smoking on a skillet, adding a little drama to dinner. 

As of now, the restaurant is offering local diners a 20 per cent “neighbour discount” as a thank you for checking out the new eatery. 

Dhoom, which is open until midnight, also offers live music and brunch. 

Cover photo by Kate Dunn

1. Dhoom